On The Road Again: The Oregon Coast
It’s All About Road Trips Right Now
After weeks of being cooped up at home, Danny and I were itching for some unfamiliar scenery. Initial thoughts about a drive to Oregon conjured up visions of a computer game from my youth wherein your entire family dies in horrific fashion on the way to this coast. After doing a little research, it actually looked like the perfect destination.
Astoria, Oregon is 185 miles from Seattle and is a fascinating place, beginning with the entry into the town. The Astoria-Megler Bridge is a steel cantilever operation that spans just over 4 miles and is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. It is simultaneously striking and terrifying. Just the thought of crossing it caused me to break out in a sweat which is why I made Danny drive. (You might not expect this, but he’s actually a good driver.) This bridge is a local celebrity, having made cameos in movies like Short Circuit, Kindergarten Cop, The Goonies, both of the Free Willy movies.
The 1st American Settlement West of the Rockies
Founded in 1811, Astoria is the oldest city in the state and is rich in history and in charm. A hot brewpub scene, a weekly street market, over 300 Victorian Era homes, and waters rife with fish set the scene for a town unlike any other. Rumor has it, Clark Gable began his career in 1922 at the Astoria Theatre. Astoria’s true pride and joy might be the Astoria Column, a 125-foot landmark. When the coronavirus isn’t running rampant, you can climb the 164 steps up a spiral staircase and enjoy panoramic views of the Columbia River and beyond.
Down in the Goon Docks
To many, the 1985 cult classic The Goonies is what really put Astoria on the map. During milestones like the summers of 20th and 30th anniversaries, the famous house featured in the movie received thousands of Goonie fans everyday. The iconic house is at the top of a private unpaved road with no turnaround. This made for an awkward encounter when we decided to disrespect the homeowners’ privacy and drive on up anyway. I had heard tales of unfriendly residents calling the cops on anyone who came too close or covering the house completely with tarp. I didn’t want to be a nuisance but I wasn’t going to pass through Astoria without stopping by. Upon approaching the house, I noticed a donation box in front which to me implies that once you’ve donated, it’s okay to take a couple of pics and go on your merry way. Which is exactly what we did.
When the Gales of November Come Early
Just outside of Astoria in Warrenton lies a shipwreck you can walk to at low tide. The Wreck of the Peter Iredale ran aground en route to the Columbia River in 1906 and its rusted bow and mast have been sitting here for over 100 years. Locals mentioned that the wreckage used to be much larger but has worn down over time. Just down the street, the Hammond Marina was the site of the dramatic scene from Free Willy where Willy jumps to his freedom over the breakwater. (I could not get the song “Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” or that annoying Michael Jackson song out of my head.)
The Salt of the Earth
There is more history than meets the eye in the cute, tourist town of Seaside. Beyond the taffy shops and buggy rentals is the end of the Lewis and Clark Trail commemorated with a bronze statue at the famous automobile turnaround. This monument honors the 18 month, 4,000 mile journey from Saint Louis to the coast of northern Oregon. A couple blocks away, preserved in the middle of a residential neighborhood is the Lewis and Clark Salt Works. Salt significantly enhanced bland food and was essential in meat preservation. In early 1806, these five kettles were used to tediously extract salt by boiling sea water 24 hours a day by members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. And here they sit, fenced on a quiet street next to an apartment building. These are just a few of the local Lewis & Clark historical sites in the area.
Goonies Never Say Die
Staying at the Stephanie Inn in Cannon Beach is living the dream. Each room in this luxury hotel has a name — We were in 219, the Geraldine Louise. The views from the second floor are the best, as you can see the beach whether sitting or standing. Haystack Rock is a monolithic sea stack towering 235-feet above the Pacific. The stunning landscape and active tidal pools provided us with endless entertainment. July rang in 55° and grey. There was no sun, not even once. A true Pacific Northwest experience.
